Critiquing Gender & Islam: Transnational, Intersectional and Queer Perspectives

Refashioning MuslimsWomen between the New Conservatism and Neoliberalism in Istanbul

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About this book

A rare account of neoliberal Muslim female subjectivity in Turkey’s elite Islamic bourgeois circles

  • Focuses on the formation of neoliberal Muslim female subjectivity under AKP rule in Turkey
  • Uses longitudinal ethnographic research to analyse how successful careers of Muslim female fashion professionals have established them as trustworthy public figures in various other fields, namely leisure, charity and the family
  • Examines the emergence of Muslim fashionistas against the backdrop of the AKP’s hegemonic power in Turkey since 2002
  • Challenges modernist, liberal and nonliberal conceptualization of Muslim women’s agency to move beyond the stereotypical and homogenizing portrayals of Muslim women as ‘oppressed’, ‘empowered’, or ‘strictly pious’
  • Makes significant contribution to sociological and anthropological accounts of lived Islam by deriving a theoretical framework from Ricoeur’s notion of ‘narrative identity’
  • Contributes to sociological and anthropological accounts of lived Islam by deriving a theoretical framework from Bourdieu’s notion of ‘regulated liberties’

Refashioning Muslims explores the self-presentations and daily performances of young, bourgeois, fashion-conscious Muslim female entrepreneurs who emerged as new social actors in fields of fashion, leisure, charity and the family during the 2010s. It examines how these 'Muslim fashionistas' significantly bolster governmental capacity to build public consent by projecting images of successful entrepreneurs, benevolent philanthropists and ideal mothers. However, their performances entail moments of imperfection and moral dilemma as they navigate market demands and everyday aspirations often conflicting with Islamic orthodoxy and traditional gender order.

The book analyses how Muslim fashionistas cooperate with and challenge religious, classed, and gendered ideals, shaping a neoliberal Muslim subjectivity in the new Turkey. Drawing on Ricoeur’s notion of ‘narrative identity’ and Bourdieu’s notion of ‘regulated liberties’, the book argues that women’s subjectivities are guided by the dynamic unity of the narrative configuration of the self, and formed through a complex interplay between autonomy and (self-)regulation.

Reviews

This comprehensive and clever study offers new insights into the relationship of religion and fashion, providing a rich, historicised, ethnographic account of a new generation of ‘Muslim fashionistas’ entering a field of previously male-led companies. Kütük-Kuriş’ probing account explores how fashion provides a unique terrain for the ambiguous and often conflictual processes of crafting the pious neoliberal subject.
Table of contents

List of Figures
Acknowledgments
Abbreviations

Introduction: Same Old Debates, New Social Agents

1. Rethinking Muslim Women’s Agency
2. The Politics of Gender in Modern Turkey
3. A Style of One’s Own
4. Diversifying ‘Muslim Chic’
5. The New Islamic Leisure Sites and The Making of Cosmopolitan Muslim Selves
6. Helping the Poor in Splendour
7. Balancing Work and Family: Happy Medium or Dual Strain?

Conclusion: The Women of Many Talents: New Bourgeois Muslim Women Under the AKP

Appendix I: Interlocutors
Appendix II: Cyber-Ethnography and Short Encounters

References
Index

About the author

Merve Kütük-Kuris

Merve Kütük-Kuriş is an Assistant Professor of Gender and Women’s Studies in the Department of Sociology at Boğaziçi University. She received her M.Phil. in Political Theory from the University of Oxford and her PhD in Politics from SOAS, University of London. Her main research interests revolve around social and political theory, political ethnography, sociology of Islam, social movements, and gender studies with particular reference to the Middle East. Kütük Kuriş has published in edited collections and peer-reviewed journals, including Women’s Studies International Forum, Journal of Middle East Women’s Studies, and Religions.

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